Inca Royal Roads Self-Guided Tour

On the morning of your departure for the tour, you'll be outfitted with a motorcycle of your choice and given a thoughtful presentation that will answer all your questions about local customs, rules of the road, and how to operate your pre-programmed GPS. We'll also provide you with a detailed 'roadbook' detailing where you're going every day. Your emergency kit includes everything from a prepaid cell phone (in case something happens) to first aid kits and tools.

The first day's ride is intended to give you a sampling of what different types of roads await you during this journey; some are even ancient Incan cobblestone roads which are extremely uneven but this shouldn't scare or challenge you. If you prefer a 100% paved route, just let us know!

Your first stop will be in the middle of the world, right on the Equator. Meaning path of the sun in Quechua - one of many indigenous languages spoken within Ecuador - Inti-ñan Museum has been home to tribes and civilizations alike since before recorded history. A space that these early people used to worship for millennia; it seems only fitting then that you would start your journey there. Learn about how they came to understand this spot being at the center of the planet centuries before any modern geographies or GPS systems existed. Do an experiment demonstrating the Coriolis effects caused by earth's rotation when playing with gravity yourself and exploring other interactive exhibits as well. For those interested in learning about the local culture, take a peek inside some traditional homes. After catching up on everything from culture to education, you'll head out to see even more stunning sights across this vibrant country.

After visiting the Inti-ñan museum, you will officially be riding in the Northern Hemisphere. Pass through a desert canyon which will lead you to an even deeper canyon before you exit it and enter rolling fields of vegetables, roses, and dairy cattle. You can stop for lunch at the quaint village of San José de Minas, whose streets are lined with beautiful stone churches and a well-manicured central park.  This sudden change from desert to verdant farmland will be your first taste of the remarkable diversity that awaits you on this journey!

From San José de Minas, climb in altitude on back roads giving grand vistas of the serene farmlands and forests below. You will experience great aromas as you pass rose plantations and ride through eucalyptus and pine forests.

A sense of euphoria will take hold as you ride up to over 12,200 feet and view the magnificent Mojanda Lake set amidst the Fuya-Fuya volcano, which is said to protect this water body from harm. The grandeur only gets grander as you make your way through Otavalo—famous for its sprawling indigenous market. Today's journey ends with a taste of local cuisine and music at Hacienda Pinsaqui —one of Ecuador's oldest haciendas and notable as the site where the Pinsaqui Treaty was signed, bringing lasting peace between Colombia. Simon Bolivar made many visits here throughout his lifetime; a three-course dinner is included.

Day 2
Otavalo - Papallacta - Baeza - Puerto Misahualli
Distance Covered :  306 Km / 190 miles

After a hearty breakfast of fresh juices, baked loaves of bread, and eggs, you'll start the day by riding to the indigenous market in Otavalo. For hundreds of years, the indigenous people have brought their animals, crafts, and produce down from the surrounding hills to sell in the market here. Don't worry - this market has very little to do with typical knick-knacks and tourist dollars. This market is the real thing.  You'll witness the frenzy of the animal market - one of the most authentic experiences you'll find anywhere.  Take some time to explore the Plaza de Los Ponchos- a maze of hanging tapestries, weavings, and handmade garments.  A second animal section of the market deals with fowl, cuyes (guinea pigs), rabbits, puppies, and kittens.

From Otavalo, head down the Panamericana Highway, rolling past pastoral green dairy farms and through dense forests.  To your left, catch a glimpse of the Volcan Cayambe, the highest point in the world on the Equator and the only place where the line between the hemispheres crosses snow. You will ride across the equator again and continue your ride in the southern hemisphere, passing warm valleys bursting with orchards and rose plantations.

Turn east off the Panamericana and stop to add a layer of clothes. You'll ride steeply up to the Papallacta Pass at 4064 meters (13,350 feet).  From here, cross the Paramo de Papallacta grasslands and view the high-altitude trout paradise, Lake Campucocha. Here, you have passed the continental divide, and now you'll start descending onto the Eastern Slopes.  Grandiose waterfalls of several hundred feet tower over the road in several spots and will inspire pure awe.  See the four peaks of the Antisana Volcano peep through the clouds to the south as the air begins to warm and the humidity begins to rise.

Once in the cloudforest town of Baeza, rolling rural landscapes take over, banked by steep hillsides.  The road becomes a series of twisty curves that float above the roaring Papallacta river - whose waters are heading briskly towards the Amazon, just like you are.

The road drops again in elevation.  The vegetation gets thicker and greener while the air becomes more substantial with occasional wisps of steam.  You're now in the Amazon basin, an area specifically known for its abundant condors and rare birds, such as the black-billed mountain toucan.

Further along, we'll pass through the whitewater kayaking capital of Tena and cross a narrow bridge at Puerto Napo.  We'll follow the Rio Napo eastward and stop in the town of Puerto Misahualli. This jungle town is the westernmost navigable port in the Amazon network of rivers.  It is possible to take a boat from here to the Atlantic ocean.  Have a little fun with the town's most famous residents - a congress of monkeys that love to tease the local tourists and dogs.

You will get onto a road that follows the Napo River and deeper into the Amazon jungle.  The Napo River is the fifth widest tributary to the Amazon River.
You'll be shown to your private riverside cabin at the luxurious Jardin Misahualli Lodge.  The lodge features a fantastic restaurant that serves up locally-sourced foods.  You can take an evening stroll into the town of Puerto Misahualli to meet with the locals and later, fall asleep listening to the cacophony of the jungle.

You'll wake up to the scents and sounds of the Amazon jungle and enjoy a buffet breakfast before setting out in a canoe for an expedition in the wilderness with a native guide.  You will learn about the many different species of plants, birds, insects, and animals in the jungle, as well as their traditional and medicinal uses.  You can float back to the lodge in innertubes enjoying the tranquility of river life before you pack up and return to your motorcycles.

You will skirt alongside the jungle's dense vegetation and continue to the town of Puyo, where we will turn west to begin our climb back up the Eastern Slopes.  You'll be riding in a deep gorge cut out by the mighty Rio Pastaza (a tributary to the Amazon), which will get narrower and narrower as you ascend.  This road has been dubbed the "Ruta de las Cascadas" for the many waterfalls that tumble from the green valley walls.  Many of them fall right overhead from overhanging rocks.  

The vegetation is luxuriant and exotic, with the scent of many wild orchids that will fill your helmet. Stop to visit the Paillon del Diablo (Devil's Cauldron) falls, a thundering set of waterfalls that we will view from a beautiful set of steps.  It is an impressive display of mother nature's tremendous power. 

You continue your climb up the eastern slopes on the bikes and stop next for a real thrill.   Tie into a zip line and cross a 200-foot chasm head-first across for about a half a mile canyon straight into the Agoyan waterfall.  It feels like you have grown wings and become a bird.  If you want to do this at a slower pace, there is also a cable car!

Once you have reached an altitude of about 6,000 feet (1850 m), you will be in the adventure sports town of Baños, at the base of the active Tungurahua Volcano.  Baños was settled in 1553 and enjoyed a warm, subtropical climate and is nestled among soaring green hills lined with waterfalls.

Volcan Tungurahua (meaning "throat of fire") rises above the town at 5053 meters (about 16,500 feet). Its relatively frequent eruptions provide an animated display of pyroclastic flows and ash, which we can view from the hills above the town.  

You'll check into the cozy and friendly Posada del Arte and walk a block up the street to soak yourself in the volcanic baths that make this town famous.  There are various pools of different temperatures and sizes. One is so hot that it will leave a red mark around you like a cooked lobster once you get out. These baths are a great way to relax after a day of excitement and great riding.  You can have dinner in one of the town's international restaurants.

Day 4

Baños - Penipe - Riobamba - Salinas de Guaranda

Distance Covered: 158 km - 98 miles

You may want to linger a little in the beautiful town of Baños, but you've got a lovely day ahead of you. You'll head out of town, taking the route that crawls around the base of the mighty Volcan Tungurahua.

There, follow the Chambo River valley, and the landscapes will alternate between deep green pastoral lands and dense eucalyptus and pine forests. You will pass several orchards and scenic agricultural villages as you climb out of the valley and into the city of Riobamba.

Riobamba is a colonial city with pastel buildings and well-groomed parks and squares.  Ride through the city's cobblestone streets that are brimming with life.  We will give you timing information so you can be sure to arrive in Riobamba for lunch. From hearty meals to classic snacks, the streets are filled with stands selling tasty food for travelers to sample. There is something for everyone, from hearty quinoa soups and stews to classic dishes like Churrasco and Llapingachos  We'll point you to one of our favorite local family-run eateries that serves up traditional Ecuadorian dishes with an inventive twist.

Upon departing Riobamba, your journey up the Chimborazo Volcano begins. Gradually, the air temperature drops as your elevation increases, and eventually, you reach a staggering 14,500 feet (4,500 meters). You'll ride beyond the treeline, giving the sensation of having stepped onto an entirely different planet. Wild vicuña - the cousin of the camel and llama - roam the region, furthering the illusion of having arrived in an untouched, pristine corner of the world.

Of course, what truly makes Chimborazo unique is its title of technically being the closest point to Heaven on Earth.  In fact, due to the bulge of the Earth's equator, this summit is even higher than that of Mount Everest. 

As you journey through picturesque mountain villages straight from the pages of National Geographic, you will find an arduous terrain, yet the people in these secluded hamlets are welcoming and friendly. Descend to the elevation of 11,800 feet, and you will arrive in the town of Salinas de Guaranda - a small community of 6,000 predominantly Indigenous citizens. Through the help of the Swiss government and Italian Catholic organizations, a foundation has been established in this village that has enhanced the lives of its inhabitants and also generated job opportunities through the establishment of a chocolate factory, a cheese factory, a wool mill, a soccer ball maker and a women's knitting collective. You will gain better insight into the productivity and culture of Salinas de Guaranda through a guided tour that offers a glimpse into the history and beauty of this quaint town.  A dinner made from the local cheeses, hams, and mushrooms will have you thinking you are somewhere in the Italian Alps.   You will sleep well in the brisk air of this charming village.

Today is a longer ride, full of fantastic experiences and fantastic riding, so you should start early with a filling breakfast.  You'll start with twisty roads through beautiful fields and pastures and then climb back into the high elevations along a roaring river.  The Balbanera Church, built by the conquistadors atop the Inca and other ancient civilizations' sacred sites, is a must-see in Ecuador.

As you head south down this lonely stretch of the Panamericana Highway, you will see profound changes in the landscape.  The rugged, sharp peaks and snow-capped volcanoes of the North will give way to softer, greener, and tamer lower elevations.  The climate and terrain are also a little drier here.  Until just a few years ago, this stretch of the Panamericana Highway was in deplorable shape, which isolated this section of the country for many years.  We can still witness these effects as we ride through the virtually uninhabited countryside. The whole region feels very far away and strikingly different from the North of Ecuador.  The motorcycle riding here is some of the best you'll find on the entire Panamericana (which stretches from Alaska to Ushuaia in Argentina).  

The little town of Tambo was an ancient Chasqui (Inca courier) way station on the Inca Royal Road between Cusco and Quito. We'll turn off here from Panamericana Highway and into the traditional lands of the Cañari people.  The Cañari are particularly noted for their resistance against the Inca Empire.  Eventually conquered by the Inca shortly before the Spanish arrival, the Cañari would later ally with the Spanish against the Inca. Through these sprawling, patchwork fields, there is a glimpse of a much simpler and healthier past. Riding through this area of Cañari is a unique experience, with locals donning brightly-hued ponchos and white felt bowlers. It is all done with the help of animals instead of machines.

The meandering road leads to Ingapirca, the best-preserved Inca site in Ecuador.  Constructed during the Inca expansion into Ecuador in the late 15th century, the Cañari people had previously occupied the site for more than 500 years. The vast ruins here include the Temple of the Sun, which remains mostly intact. It is composed of an immense oval-shaped platform whose slightly inward-tapering walls are superbly carved stone blocks fitted together with enigmatic precision.  The site exhibits other architectural emblems of the Inca empire, such as trapezoidal doorways and exquisite stonework usually reserved for ceremonial temples.  We will get a brief tour of the site to reveal the fascinating history of this region and the ancient empire.

From Ingapirca, continue down this magnificent stretch of the Panamericana through the towns of Cañar, Biblian, and Azoques, which all feature gothic temples and churches that sit righteously above the highway. And although the Inca defeated them, the Canari culture lives on.  Passing through paramo and then thick forests, the road brings us to the city of Cuenca.

Cuenca is Ecuador's most beautiful and charming city.  The UNESCO World Heritage City features narrow, cobblestone streets, harmonious houses with balconies and flowery interior courtyards, and many churches and monasteries built of precious stone.  The Spanish founded it in 1557 on the site ofTomebamba - a city established by the Inca in 1470, which was said to have rivaled Cusco in Peru with its pomp and majesty.

Check into one of Cuenca's best hotels, the Hotel Victoria- right in Cuenca's colonial center.  Then, stroll around the center of this city, visiting the Catedral Vieja - a cathedral built in 1557 and the Parque Calderon and the famous flower market.  Cuenca offers an outstanding choice of excellent restaurants to end a fantastic day of riding in style.

Day 6
Rest Day in Cuenca

Today is a day for relaxation and activity.  You'll be staying in the UNESCO World Heritage Site of Cuenca's colonial center - voted as the #1 place for retirement by International Living Magazine.  You'll have a chance to get to know this beautiful city.  There are fantastic restaurants, hot spring inexpensive luxury spas,  museums, zoos, and several markets to explore.  Click here for a guide of things to do in Cuenca on your rest day.

If you want more riding, we can set up a self-guided motorcycle tour of the Cajas National Park (pictured above) - one of the most exhilarating rides in South America (included with the tour).

You'll have an amazing day, no matter what you choose to do!

After a delightful buffet breakfast, pack up the bike and ride through Cuenca's cobblestone streets and depart the city, heading east.  The road will first bring us past fantastic rock outcroppings and then drop into a warmer, greener valley.  The valley is replete with fruit orchards, flower plantations, and orchid nurseries.  This is a newly paved road, and this beautiful valley is becoming a popular place for Cuencanos to buy their weekend homes.

You'll be riding on what is known as the "Guitar Road" because the region is known for its handmade guitars made by several craftsmen with shops along this scenic mountain road.  The guitars made here have ended up in the hands of many famous musicians, including Bob Dylan, Judy Collins, and Andrés Segovia. 

Ride along the pleasant Rio Cutilcay, which brings you to the town of Paute.  Paute is a beautiful town with a well-manicured central park.  The town is famous for its fruit, and you can pick up a great jar of jam from the town to bring home.

From here, climb again in altitude before descending into the Amazonian town of Sucua, the primary home, and center of the Shuar people.  "Shuar" in the Shuar language means people. But the Shuar refer to Spanish speakers as apach and non-Spanish/non-Shuar speakers as inkis. Europeans and European Americans used to refer to Shuar as jívaros or jíbaros; this word probably derives from the 16th-century Spanish spelling of "Shuar" but has taken other meanings, including "savage"; outside of Ecuador,  The Shuar were primarily left undisturbed by the Inca for a good reason.

The Spanish, in their quest for gold, tried to colonize them.  When they tried to impose taxation and laws, they became deeply angered and attacked a Spanish outpost, killing thousands of settlers.  The Spanish Governor was then killed by having molten gold poured down his throat until his bowels burst - their attempt at poetic justice.  Most recently, the Shuar continued their culture of being great warriors in the war with Peru in 1995, where they consistently outwitted the Peruvians.  They have only recently been integrated into Ecuadorian society. This area of the Amazon, protected by the Shuar, is one of the most pristine parts of the jungle in Ecuador.

The Shuar are famous for shrinking the heads (Tzantzas) of their enemies, which ceased just two generations ago; the process evolved to take revenge for the bewitchment of the enemy over others serving as a warning to any would-be future attackers and predators. Don't worry and have a stop in the center of town. Members of the older generation can still be seen with their facial tribal tattoos, although the younger generation has taken to wearing jeans and t-shirts...

Continue your ride, passing a display of waterfalls on all sides, and arrive in the town of Macas. Macas is a very orderly and clean town with very friendly people.  Settle into the luxurious and friendly Arrayan y Piedra Lodge for a stay full of relaxation and fun (the place is WAY better than their website would lead you to believe!)

Today's ride will take you through various terrains and changing climates, so you will need to be prepared with extra layers of clothes and a heavy set of gloves.  Set out of Macas, heading west to enter the Sangay National Park on the pristine new tarmac.  The government had promised to create this road for the past 111 years, just completed in 2014.  There has been a lot of controversy about bringing vehicles into what is considered one of Ecuador's most beautiful natural areas.

We're delighted they built this road - and you will see why! In the lower elevations, it starts with a show of several dramatic waterfalls and provides the perfect cambering in the many curves we ride as we climb in altitude.  You'll pass into the cloudforest and through the small town of Zuñac- with very friendly residents.

From Zuñac, you'll start climbing again - with more dramatic tumbling waterfalls to entertain us as you twist and turn.  The forest will begin to give way to a windswept paramo, and we will come upon the stunning Lagunas de Atillo. The ancient natives of this region, the Puruháe people, used to drown their convicted criminals in the icy waters.  Jagged, pointy peaks frame the lakes.  You'll be stopping here for some photos.

Descend a bit in elevation to arrive at a patchwork of bright and dark green fields interspersed between cold, flowing brooks.  Here the people are raising sheep, and the scenery is stunning.  We'll come through the dusty little town of Calaceda and turn to the west to rejoin the Panamerican Highway north.  You'll pass the Laguna de Colta, from which the local women gather the reeds and sell baskets alongside the road. We'll stop to see the Balbanera Church, said to be the first chapel the Conquistadors raised in 1534.  It still has carvings of angels and gargoyles, making a great photo with the snow-capped Chimborazo mountain behind it.

We'll turn west again and begin rising into highlands paramo, climbing the Chimborazo Mountain base.  With permanent glaciers at its peak, Chimborazo is the highest point in Ecuador and is the highest point on Earth.  This relatively unknown little factoid is because the Earth bulges at the Equator, and Chimborazo's peak is the furthest piece of land from Earth's core.

The road brings you into the Chimborazo National Wildlife Refuge, home to thousands of wild vicuña, the llama and camel's smaller, lighter, faster cousin.  Ecuador has one of the best-protected vicuña populations in the world, and we will be sure to see these majestic creatures as we wind around the gigantic mountain. 

You'll finish today's ride in an extraordinary place. Set at the base of the towering Chimborazo volcano, the Estrella de Chimborazo Lodge is enveloped by an awe-inspiring natural environment. It is carefully tended to preserve the fragile páramo ecosystem and its many rare species of flora and fauna, not least of which is the endemic hummingbird, the "Estrella del Chimborazo," that calls it home. Nestled at an elevation of 4,000 meters, this breathtaking site promises an unforgettable experience.

You'll wake up in the beautiful lodge, get your bike, and go back into the heights surrounding Chimborazo, climb to 14,500 feet, and descend along with another of the best roads in Ecuador, which takes you through a deep gorge of whitewater river.  The canyon starts out very narrow, but as you continue your descent, the gorge becomes wider and wider.  This is a protected ecological zone, so the traffic is limited. We usually have the road to ourselves.

You will skirt around the city of Ambato and head north to the city of Latacunga.  You will turn on the route known as one of Ecuador's most scenic - The Quilotoa Loop.  The road first leads to the town of Pujillí, with a beautiful central park and church.  From here, you'll climb higher and higher, with stunning views of the city of Latacunga and the valley below.  As you continue to rise to over 13,000 feet, the temperature will drop sharply, and you will find yourself in a dramatic open landscape of highlands paramo.  Here are traditional homes made of mud adobe and thatch roofs, called chozas.

Be sure to stop and visit the art gallery in Tigua, which is famous and displays local artists' work.  The works include painted hides, ceremonial masks, and paintings depicting daily life in this region.  Tigua is a beautiful village comprised of tiled roofs against a dramatic setting of steep hills and cliffs.  From Tigua, we'll roll downhill into the small town of Zumbahua.  

Then it's a brisk ride to the Laguna Quilotoa. This fantastic lake was created by a collapsed volcano that left behind minerals that now give the deep crater lake an odd blue-green color. From Quilotoa Lake, the road will wind through some incredibly picturesque countryside along jagged cliffs.  Arrive at the small village of Chugchilan.  It is home to about a dozen families, a cheesemaker, and a women's knitting cooperative.  You will stay at the award-winning Black Sheep Inn in the village center for the night.  They also have horses you can ride in the countryside if you arrive early.