Guided High Andes, Deep Amazon Motorcycle Tour

After a detailed and thoughtful briefing to review the driving customs, group riding practices, and review the route, we will start riding the first day on various types of roads and conditions to make sure we understand where everyone's abilities are.  We'll quickly and easily head out of Quito, turning south on the famous "Avenue of Volcanoes." This highway stretch is where the two mountain chains of the Andes that run from North to South reach their most dramatic peaks as they come close together.  The Avenue of Volcanoes rides up the middle of these two cordilleras, giving us great views. Riding this beautiful road, we'll feel small as we move along at the feet of the snow-capped Cotopaxi and the Illiniza volcanoes.  

We'll then turn onto what is known as one of Ecuador's most scenic routes - the famous "Quilotoa Loop."  We'll climb in elevation as we pass by farmlands and through small farming communities.  The pine and eucalyptus trees and rose farms that line this road will bring great scents through our helmets. We'll stop for a quick tour of a rose plantation to learn how roses are grown, sorted, packed, and shipped around the world.  We'll turn off a paved road onto an ancient handmade cobblestone road that will bring us to an unpaved road that will climb to an unpaved mountain pass.  Reaching 13,500 feet, we'll get breathtaking views of the farmlands below and the volcanoes far off in the distance.   Here we will stop to add a layer of clothes and grab some dramatic photos.

We'll pass through the small village of Isinlivi to visit with the local wood furniture makers and get a view atop the pucará - the ruins of an ancient Incan battle fort - to get a 360-degree view of the landscapes.  Then we will ride a combination of ancient cobblestone and dirt roads, taking switchbacks to descend into a lush valley before we climb back into the town of Sigchos.  Sigchos was an indigenous trading post long before the Spanish officially settled it in the 1500s.  It has a rich history and very friendly and welcoming inhabitants.  The town is often bustling with a local farmers' market or other activities.  We'll continue to ride on this scenic road taking us along scenic cliffs.  We'll spend the night in the small village of Chugchilan at the internationally-acclaimed ecolodge, Black Sheep Inn.

We have a long ride ahead of us today, one that will test our stamina and endurance.  But first, an early morning breakfast of eggs, fresh fruit, pure juice, granola, and freshly baked bread will fill us up and prepare us for the long ride ahead.  In the crisp, bright, chilly, high altitude morning air, we'll get the bikes rolling again on the curvy dirt road that follows at the edge of a deep canyon.  We'll pass through small indigenous villages and contend with the local sheepdogs who love to "herd" motorcycles that pass through their territories.

The next stop will be at the Quilotoa Crater Lake at an elevation of 12,800 feet.  This volcanic caldera was formed by a volcanic eruption about 800 years ago.  Its eruption has left a crater that has become a bottomless lake (about 800 feet deep) about 2 miles wide.  The remaining minerals from the volcano have given the water a unique greenish-blue color.  It is a fantastic view.

We'll then ride into the town of Zumbahua.  Zumbahua is an indigenous town where people here dress in the brightly colored traditional dress and speak to each other in Quechua - the language of the Inca Empire.  We'll enjoy another snack of empanadas at the market square. We'll be heading into the cooler elevations from here, and we'll want to be full of energy.

From Zumbahua, we'll climb to about 13,500 feet into the entirely different landscape and climate of the highlands pampa.  We'll have a big sky and vast views around us. We may come across wild llamas and herds of sheep in this region, so we'll proceed with care.  This area is known as well for its condor population.  We'll want to be ready with warm gloves and an extra layer of clothes as the weather here can change quickly.  People in this region are subsistence farmers, and many live in traditional mud huts.  We may stop to visit some of our friends here to show you how they live in this very challenging environment. 

We'll continue along this unimproved dirt road, downshifting into a series of tight switchbacks, and arrive in the town of Angamarca.  This farming town is isolated, where the horse and llama are still the favored form of transportation.  It is a town comprised of amicable and welcoming indigenous people. Many local farmers bring their freshly harvested goods here for sale in the local market.  We'll have lunch at one of the small restaurants in the center of town that features the Andean highlands' healthy cuisine.

We'll continue along unpaved roads along the edge of a cliff that will give us breathtaking views of the valley, hundreds of feet below.  There is very little traffic here, but we may pass another vehicle or two along this hour-long stretch of road. 

There will have been dramatic changes in temperature and vegetation by the time we arrive in the town of El Corazon.  We'll understand why there are so many sugar cane plantations surrounding this town once we visit the moonshine distillery that pumps out potent "aquadiente" liquor here.  We'll pick up a bottle of this throat cleanser, available in several flavors such as "coco loco," chocolate, and bubblegum, to later reward ourselves at the end of today's ride.

El Corazon is on the western slopes of the Andes, and we will descend to about 3,000 feet in altitude. We'll feel the tropical warmth for sure, and we'll remove some layers of clothes as we dive further into the rainforest.  Soon, however, we'll be on a somewhat challenging, steep climb back into the Andes.  And, we'll continue to climb for a while, witnessing several changes in vegetation and ways of life.  Once over a mountain pass at 13,500 feet, we'll glide into the scenic town of Salinas de Guaranda and check into our rooms at the comfortable Kachi Yacu Hotel (no website available).  We'll have a hearty dinner here, including famous local cheeses and sausages made in the Swiss tradition.

We'll sleep in just a little longer this morning.  The chances are that you are a bit tired after yesterday's incredible ride. We'll have a full breakfast in the restaurant overlooking the town of Salinas. Salinas is an extraordinary town - with a very impressive recent rags-to-riches past.  Until the early 1970's the townspeople were subject to feudal law, and they worked long hours in the fields and salt mines of the local landowners for little or no pay. 

Since the reforms put into place by President Cordova in the early 1970s, the townspeople have taken ownership of their lands. They created a local economic foundation to achieve full employment and improve the quality of life for its people.   With Swiss philanthropists' help, they established cheese-making facilities that produce very high-quality cheeses such as Andean Gruyère, Parmesan, Emmental, and Tilsit.   The cheeses they make are of exceptional quality, and sales were very successful. The townspeople launched other profitable enterprises: the manufacture of soccer balls, weaving, knitting, gourmet chocolates, teas, marmalades, and herbal remedies.  It is improving the lives of everyone in town. We'll visit these other enterprises.

We'll learn more about this town and its unique economy as we take a short walking tour with one of the townspeople to visit and taste the various chocolates and cheeses. 

Then as we ride out of Salinas, we'll climb in and ride through small villages of subsistence farmers living at over 13,000 feet. It is quite a different life, but a beautiful, unforgettable place.  The road brings us to over 14,500 feet and into the Chimborazo National Wildlife Refuge.

At this altitude, you'll feel like you are on a completely different planet.  There is little vegetation growing in the volcanic ash that surrounds the Chimborazo Volcano.  At over 21,000 feet, the snow-capped volcano is the highest point on Earth when you take into account the fact that our planet is not exactly round.  Earth bulges slightly at the Equator and makes Chimborazo the furthest piece of land from the center of the world.  You can also call it the "closest place to Heaven on Earth," which would be technically correct.

It is frigid here - usually just above the freezing point - snow and hail are common occurrences here, so be ready with an extra layer of clothes and warm gloves.  This protected wildlife refuge is one of the few places left in the world where you can still see wild vicuña - the llama's faster, lighter cousin.  We will be sure to see them, and we'll grab some photos of these graceful creatures.

The air will begin to warm again as we descend into the city of Riobamba with its colonial architecture and great restaurants.  From here, we'll continue our descent along the Chambo river.  

As we approach Baños, the road cannot be paved as it runs through an area subject to frequent geological shifting at the base of the very active Tungurahua volcano.  There is a good chance we'll witness an eruption of this volcano.  Eruptions have been occurring several times a year recently.

We will check into the comfortable and friendly Posada del Arte Bed & Breakfast, located in the heart of Baños.  Banos is a well-known destination for those seeking adventure.  We'll go for a walk through town and soak in the hot, natural spring baths that have made this city famous.  We'll enjoy a great dinner at one of the town's many superb restaurants.

Today is another chance for some additional, unexpected adventures! Baños is one of the world's best centers for adventure and extreme sports with many inexpensive experienced guides and tours available. We strongly encourage you to take full advantage of them to experience the incredible natural beauty surrounding this town. You can go for a day of rafting or kayaking on some world-class rapids, do some bungee jumps, go canyoning (rappelling down waterfalls), take a jungle tour, hike some magnificent trails, rent an ATV, ride down a volcano on a mountain bike or improve your rock-climbing skills. If none of those activities appeal to you, Baños has some great hangouts, restaurants, and bars, and exciting nightlife, too. Baños is the perfect spot for a rewarding rest day, no matter what you choose to do.

Day 5

Baños - Paillon del Diablo - Puerto Misahuallí

(90 miles 150km - 100% paved / cobblestone roads)

With a day of rest and adventure behind us, we'll pack up and head east down the eastern slopes of the Andes.  This stretch of curvy paved road goes along several cliffs and passes by stunning waterfalls. The Paillon del Diablo is one of Ecuador's most breathtaking waterfalls. The water falls over 300 feet into a deep hole in the rock below, creating impressive updrafts. You can view the falls from a series of suspension bridges or take a stairway down deep into the cauldron

Along the way, there are plenty of opportunities for some fun off the bike. We'll partake in some of the fun adventure sports that are offered along this road.<

Following along the Pastaza River, the air gets a little thicker, a little more humid, and carries the scents of wild orchids. You are now in the Amazon basin.  We'll stop for lunch to try the local dishes prepared in the local style made with local exotic fruits, fish, and vegetables

Then, we'll continue dropping in elevation until we reach the town of Puerto Misahualli. This lively town is the western-most navigable port in the Amazonian network of rivers.   This little port is where the culture and way of life become centered on the river, canoes, and wildlife in the Amazon jungle.  In Puerto Misahualli, there is a playful population of monkeys and some exotic cuisine we can try.

We'll settle in for the night at the El Jardin Misahualli Lodge that overlooks the Napo River. This special place is an Ecuador Freedom Exclusive, one of the most luxurious and comfortable lodges in the Amazon Basin.  

After a fantastic gourmet dinner, we'll settle into our luxurious cabins to enjoy the night's cacophony of the insect world.

 ~100 miles via Motorized Canoe

After a great Amazonian breakfast with plenty of fresh fruits and hearty cereals, we will ride into the town of Puerto Misahualli.  

This is the western-most navigable port in the Amazonian network of rivers.  From here, you could travel by boat to the Atlantic Ocean via Peru and Brazil. This is where the culture and way of life become centered on the river, canoes, and life in the Amazon jungle.

With our trusted boat captain Joel (we have done this a few times before with him), we will carefully load the motorcycles one-by-one into the canoe.  We will be carrying a picnic lunch and drinks to enjoy along our day's ride deep into the Amazon jungle.  We are going where there are no roads -  and where the river is the only connection to the outside world.  

We will stop to visit one of the small communities in this part of the world to learn about their culture and their way of life.  We'll have an opportunity to deliver school supplies to a local school as part of our Ride for a Purpose community program.

The motorized canoe ride will travel for about 100 miles, and we will have descended from 1,500 feet in altitude to only 500 feet above sea level.  Along the way, you will see people hunting, fishing, and panning for gold in the river.  We'll end our boat excursion in the bustling town of Rio Coca, which is Ecuador's fastest-growing city, thanks to the abundant oil reserves in this area.  Here will unload the bikes onto the shore and ride a short way to the hotel for tonight.

 We'll enjoy a walk along the river on Rio Coca's "Malecon" and have dinner in one of the wonderful outdoor restaurants.  We'll have a comfortable night's sleep in the Gran Hotel del Coca and enjoy an evening swim in their refreshing pool.

206 miles / 331 km (40% unpaved)

We have a lot of ground to cover today with drastic altitude changes, climate, vegetation, and culture ahead of us.  The day will begin with an early breakfast, and we'll be on the road in the early morning sun.

We will traverse the local plains and forests in the Amazon basin.  We will reach the Andes' foothills, and the road will give us great sweeping curves that increase in their intensity as we approach the giant mountains.

The pavement will end as we begin our steep climbs on the lonely road that rolls along the Colombian border.  This road stretch goes through one of Ecuador's most remote areas, and there is very little traffic on this road.  The security is excellent, however, as Ecuador has several military posts here on patrol.  We must be ready to show identification at certain military checkpoints.  Water gushes from all sides of the mountains here, and we will be able to enjoy the views of many spectacular waterfalls.  Everything is pure and untouched here.  It is rare to have such untouched natural areas remaining in the world.   We will stop for a swim in a beautiful waterfall to refresh before we head into the fresh air at high elevation.  A lunch stop in the small town of La Bonita - a charming village with friendly, welcoming people - and enjoy a hearty mountain stew.

We will enter the province of Carchi, taking unpaved dirt roads and paved farm roads surrounded by enchanting forests, delightful farms, and picturesque villages. We'll end the day's ride by checking into the modern and comfortable Palacio Imperial, in the center of the border town, Tulcan.

Once checked in to the hotel, we'll take a taxi to cross into Colombia (no border formalities required) and enjoy a Colombian style dinner in the city of Ipiales.  We'll visit the famous Las Lajas Sanctuary, an impressive church built over a river gorge where many make a pilgrimage each year.  Then we'll head back quickly (again, no border formalities required) over the border into Ecuador for the night.

100 miles/ 161 km (90 % unpaved)

Today's ride will be an outstanding day with a variety of terrain and climates.  We'll start the ride heading out of Tulcan, riding on farm roads, and climbing back into the western cordillera.  We'll ride a few miles among ancient cobblestone roads that lie on the border with Colombia and stop for a morning soak in the sulfuric hot springs in Tufiño.  These springs are well known for their ability to lower blood pressure and improve digestion.  It is an excellent way to start another day's great ride.

Once back on the bikes, we'll continue to climb in altitude on unpaved roads into one of the rarest ecosystems in the world.  The El Angel Biological reserve is home to the rare frailejon plant, which can only grow in a few places in the world.  It requires a high elevation rainforest, and El Angle park is one of the most beautiful places to see it.  The road will take us to a height of nearly 14,000 feet in a completely different landscape and atmosphere.  Again, we'll be ready with an additional layer of clothes and warm gloves as we ride through this desolate area.

From there, we will begin our descent along the western slopes of the Andes and through the towns of Maldonado and El Chical.  This is a region known for its high-quality coffee beans, which are exported around the world.  We will be sure to pick up a bag of freshly roasted coffee to enjoy at one of our stops along the way.

We'll be in the rainforest and jungle; then we'll climb again over a mountain pass and down into a lush, green tranquil valley.   This area is one of the most biodiverse regions in the world.  We'll end the day with a swim in the pool at the luxurious Hacienda Primavera Wilderness Lodge.  

85 miles / 137 km - 75 % offroad

The morning's ride will be in the rainforest and along unpaved farm roads that twist along the western slopes.  We'll continue to climb on unpaved roads and enter the Cotacachi-Cayapas Ecological Reserve, another of Ecuador's well-protected natural areas.

We'll visit the isolated village of La Merced de Buenos Aires and have a lunch of trout freshly caught from the cold mountain water.  

We'll witness changing vegetation and more refreshing air as we climb on steep switchbacks above the clouds to over 13,500 feet.  We'll have fantastic views of the valley below and head down on challenging switchbacks into a deep canyon.

Then we'll ride into the town of Urcuqui, known for its hot springs, and then continue along with a combination of freshly paved twisties and old cobblestone and arrive in the town of Cotacachi.  Cotacachi is known for its leather artisans, so this is an excellent place to get a new wallet, belt, or other high-quality leather goods at meager prices.

We'll stop in the center of the indigenous city of Otavalo, with one of the highest concentrations of  Native American populations in the world.  The Plaza de Los Ponchos market is a very unusual and exciting place.    We'll have a walk around this bustling city.

Then, we will end the day along the calming shores of Lake San Pablo. We will enjoy the last night together, enjoying a traditional Ecuadorian hot cinnamon drink as we take a boat ride under the Imbabura volcano.  You'll sleep next to a roaring wood fire in a private cabin at the comfortable Cabañas del Lago Hosteria.

100 miles / 161km (30% offroad)

Our last day will not be short on drastic changes in terrain, climate, and culture, just as we have seen over the previous nine days.   We'll start the morning by riding to the high altitude Mojanda Lake at the end of an ancient Incan cobblestone road at 13,500 feet.  Then, we'll cross the valley and head back into the mountains, on cobblestone and rocky dirt roads. These roads will lead us to the picturesque colonial town of San José de Minas.  

From there, we roll through rose and fresh-cut flower farms and down into the Guayallabamba river canyon - a dry, dusty canyon that looks a lot like Arizona or California.  We'll climb back out of the canyon and stop at the Intiñan Solar Museum, located precisely on the Equator line.

Here, at the Equator, we will see the strange effects of gravity and the Coriolis effect that we can only see at this exact spot on the Earth.  We will witness water in a sink spin clockwise and then counter-clockwise as we move the drain from one side of the world to the other.  

Then, we will have a smooth ride back into the city to finish up our tour where we started - in the magnificent capital city of Quito.  Quito is a UNESCO world heritage city because it has the best-preserved historic center in all of Latin America.

We hope this proves to be as much fun for you as it is for us to create and guide this tour!

High Andes, Deep Amazon Tour with Jess McKinley - Ultimate Motorcycling Magazine from Ecuador Freedom Bike Rental on Vimeo.